Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Sicily - final days

I had read several favorable reviews of Osteria del Duomo - a restaurant at the foot of the cathedral in Cefalu. We had an 8PM reservation, so we wondered the streets of Cefalu for a bit before then.

We noticed many more old buildings and ruins. I loved seeing all the elderly watching street activity from their balconies. We passed a very rotund chef sitting on a bench talking to a little boy. We saw a boy and girl sitting and playing on the steps of a Megalithic structure on the sea wall. There was a very shy and suspicious cat playing with an old water fountain. As we wondered the more residential streets, we heard the sounds of someone practicing a musical instrument. And as darkness fell, I could see inside people's homes, the ancient vaulted yet low ceilings, old television sets in very simple kitchen/dining areas -- some protected from the outside only by a beaded curtain.

We wandered to the restaurant, and upon arrival, it was clear to us that a "reservation" simply meant that you took your pick of the leftover tables.

Not a great start.

The menu was completely unimaginative, in contrast to what was stated in my Fodor's guide. It was clear to me that tourists who have written reviews on tripadvisor.com and Fodors alike have confused this place with the Cafe Duomo across the street.

There was not enough wait staff, especially considering that rather than make people wait, they just kept erecting more tables outside the designated patio area. So, in the end, there were two people handling about 15 tables. They got my order wrong and Sweetie's meat had a huge piece of gristle.

But, it was a great setting in front of the cathedral and we enjoyed the piano player.

Afterwards, I went to the pastry shop across the street and picked up something that looked very traditional. It was sooooooo rum-soaked that I really had to struggle to eat it.

Anyway, we then sat on the steps of the Duomo for a bit, as this was clearly the thing to do. We had seen countless people wander up and sit on the steps during our dinner, so that's what we did as well.

The next day
On our final day in Sicily, we simply lounged around our bungalow, sat on its spacious deck overlooking the Med, and enjoyed our last meals at Calanica. We were sad to see our vacation coming to an end, and were already talking about going back...

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